A suit is one of the most powerful items of clothing that a person can own. Not only does it give the wearer an immense boost in self-confidence, but it makes the wearer look smart and sharp in an instant.

Purchasing a bespoke suit is probably one of the biggest clothing investments that an individual can make. And yet, so many people have no idea what actually goes into the design of a bespoke suit!

In today’s blog post, we are doing a deep dive into the making of a bespoke suit, focusing on features that can be customized to your taste. After all, a great suit is the grand sum of its parts. Whilst the suit must look attractive as a whole, each part must look fantastic individually too.

The Cut


Different cut for suits

We have two popular house cuts: Slim & Fitted

Our slim cut suit is made close to the body with a higher waist and armholes for a more streamlined silhouette. This style is most likely to flatter those with very slim body types and it’s a popular style option among many of our clients. 

A classic cut suit is exactly what the name suggests. It is a timeless, elegant style with more room over the body. This cut is ideal for those who have a more conservative style of dressing or those who like their clothing to be more comfortable and roomy. Interestingly, the trends from London Men’s Fashion week suggest that this is the direction that men’s tailoring is heading!

A fitted cut suit is a happy medium between a classic cut suit and a slim suit. It is not overly slimline, yet it has a contemporary cut that neatly contours your body. This is a style that will flatter most people’s body types and will look stylish for many years to come.

The Fastening

Single Breasted and Double Breasted

There are two styles of jackets in suiting: single-breasted and double-breasted.

A single-breasted jacket is the most common and the most flattering to a wide variety of body types. This style of jacket will button with anything from one to even four buttons, however, a two-button fastening is the most common. This is because it is versatile enough to wear to work, special events and even casually. A one button jacket tends to feel a little more formal, whilst a three-button jacket is a lot more traditional with extra coverage over the chest.

What is coming back in style is the double-breasted jacket. This style jacket can be buttoned in a variety of styles to show more or fewer shirts. The 6 x 2 fastening is particularly classic making it an excellent place to start if you’re new to double-breasted jackets.

The Lapels


The lapels are a very important feature of a suit. They frame the face, enhance the shoulders and balance the body. There are three options when choosing the lapels for your bespoke suit: notch, peak and shawl.


Notch Lapel Formal Suit


The notch lapel is a true classic and a fail-safe option for someone who is unsure of what lapel to choose. It is most commonly used on single-breasted jackets and can vary in width from pretty narrow (which is popular at the moment) to very wide.


Peak Lapel Bespoke Suit


A peak lapel is a little more formal and commonly found on double-breasted jackets. They are an ideal choice for someone who wants to make their shoulders appear broader and more defined.


Shawl Lapel Formal Suit


A shawl lapel is traditionally used in dinner suits and formalwear, such as smoking jackets. You can’t beat the elegance of a midnight blue dinner jacket with a satin shawl lapel – very James Bond! That being said, the shawl lapel is starting to creep its way into lounge suiting. Whilst it’s quite an unusual look, it works extremely well with the relaxed tailoring that is becoming popular right now.

The Vents


Single vent and double vent suit


Another choice to make is to go for a single or a double vent. A single vented jacket is a very popular option while a double vent is a more stylish option and offers ease of movement and also allows you to put your hands in your pockets without creasing up the sides of your jacket. Whilst we generally suggest a double vented jacket, the choice is entirely up to you.

Lining & Name Embroidery


Lining and Name Embroidery


Lining your suit jacket adds weight and structure to the garment. Lining fabrics can be made from a variety of different clothes, from the finest silk to the cheapest polyester. For our bespoke suits, we primarily work with viscose and Bemberg linings, which is of high-quality, breathable, light, durable and very comfortable to wear. We have a variety of lining designs for you to choose from be it plans or designs. 

Our bespoke feature also includes the option of having your Name or Initials embroidered inside the Jacket for that little personal touch.

Button & Button Holes


Buttons and Button Holes


Our suits come with a choice of working button holes, made completely by hand and a large selection of button options for your suit. Horn buttons are a beautiful choice, as they feature a subtle grain pattern throughout. We also offer other button options such as mother of pearl, metal and cloth-covered.

Interested in Commissioning a Bespoke Suit?


As you can see, the options are almost unlimited when you go bespoke. If you’d like a beautifully tailored suit that has been designed entirely by you, book in for a FREE consultation. We’d be delighted to walk you through the process.