When you go out and buy a suit today, whether if it is through a store or online, chances are you will hear the terms Glued/Fused, Half Canvas or Full Canvas. But what exactly do these Suit Interlining terms mean, and why are some jacket construction techniques better than others and why do they matter so much?
The above terms are used quite loosely and therefore we would like to help you understand so you get the most value when you buy your next suit. Don’t expect the salesman to know what they’re talking about, you should know what you get so you don’t get cheated.
Now for the interlining, you basically have three options. It starts with glued or fused, half canvas, and full canvas. With full canvas being the best and fused being the cheapest and not so good option. Let’s start with the cheapest option and work our way up.
Fusing/Gluing Method
Fused or glued interlinings are the number one thing in the sewing industry today simply because they’re inexpensive and you can produce it on a mass scale very easily and cost effectively. Well the problem with this is that there’s not much flexibility in the garment and you can feel it because it feels less comfortable and it does not stretch when you move.
It is also less breathable and overall it makes the jacket look stiff. For example with this technique you never end up with a nice lapel roll, usually they are quite flat which makes it look less attractive to the wearer. It is also the least durable option, overtime with a few washes it will likely show bubbles on the lapel and on the body of the jacket.
Full Canvas
This method uses an Interlining that is typically made from Horse Hair. This material is sandwiched between the cloth you see on the outside, and the lining you see on the inside. The purpose of the Canvas Interlining is to help give the suit jacket support for its shape, a bit like a skeleton – indeed, this internal layer is also often referred to as a suit’s “structure”. the interlining is hand sewn to the fabric and as such, it is flexible. So when you move, it moves with you, it’s comfortable, there are no pressure points, over time, the garment actually feels better and last longer.
This Canvas helps the jacket sit, hang and fit better on your body -and allows the suit to ultimately achieve what it’s designed for: to accentuate the shape of the masculine physique.
The only real downside to this method is the cost of producing it. Due to its intricate nature and the length of time it needs to produce one, the cost is significantly higher than that of a Half Canvassed Suit or a Fused one. The benefits though far outweigh the cost.
Half Canvas Construction
With a Half Canvas construction the Canvas only extends from the padded shoulder to about halfway down the jacket body instead of all the way down. Because it requires considerably less work than Full Canvas, Half Canvas is a cheaper option while still providing much-needed structure. It will feel noticeably more robust, comfortable, and will be better-fitting than a suit without canvas, but is also lighter and less structured than a Full Canvas.
The only reason to ever go with half-canvas versus full canvas is to save on cost. So if you don’t want to compromise in terms of quality, you should always opt for the full canvas. However, if you can’t afford full canvas, a half canvas garment is much superior to a glued or fused interlining because it’s more breathable, more comfortable, you don’t overheat, and it lasts longer.
